La Candelaria: el origen de la capital

Por: Javier Giraldo Acosta

Si bien no hay certeza sobre el sitio exacto de la fundación de Bogotá, el 6 de agosto de 1538, si bien algunos creen que fue en 1539, es claro que en los alrededores del actual ‘Chorro de Quevedo’ sucedió el acto formal de Gonzalo Jiménez de Quesada, en la más tradicional, la más antigua, la más histórica, la más cultural y quizá la más bella de las localidades de la capital: La Candelaria.

Tomó su nombre del templo ubicado en la actual calle 11 con carrera 4, dedicado a Nuestra Señora de La Candelaria, devoción traída por los frailes Agustinos Recoletos desde España, en donde la historia marca el origen de la devoción que se celebra cada 2 de febrero.

Pero la construcción del templo inició casi 150 años después de la fundación de Bogotá, que por el norte solo llegaba hasta el sector de Las Nieves (la actual calle 20), por el sur hasta la calle 4 (Las Cruces), por el occidente hasta San Victorino y tenía en el Cerro de Guadalupe su límite oriental.

La actual localidad empezó a diferenciarse con la expansión de la ciudad y ha conservado la mayor riqueza histórica por las construcciones tradicionales del llamado centro histórico que alberga la mayor cantidad de museos, colegios, universidades, el centro administrativo, con las sedes de las tres ramas del poder público y la primera plaza que tuvo la ciudad, la actual Plaza de Bolívar.

Por eso, visitar esta localidad es encontrar los más ancestrales recuerdos de la capital mezclados con la actividad comercial, turística, empresarial y cultural de los tiempos modernos.

Este es el polo de desarrollo turístico en el cual se ha concentrado la apuesta de la administración distrital para atraer a colombianos y extranjeros que a pie, en bicicleta o en uno que otro vehículo que simula el tradicional tranvía, quieren revivir los sitios que en su momento ocupó ‘el libertador’, Simón Bolívar; las calles que pisaron los próceres de la libertad, los escenarios del grito de independencia, de la impresión de los derechos del hombre, y las causas de dolores patrios como la muerte de dirigentes políticos, como Gaitán, o el holocausto del Palacio de Justicia.

En las calles de la localidad 17, el Banco de la República ha asentado la Biblioteca Luis Ángel Arango y el Museo de Botero, iniciativas mejicanas construyeron el Centro Cultural García Márquez, están los primeros colegios del país y las sedes de importantes universidades, las casas de ilustres pintores, como Gregorio Vásquez de Arce y Ceballos, y de escritores como Rafael Pombo y casi que en cada pared aparece una placa que cuenta una fracción del desarrollo del país que inició en ese punto.

Por el reciente interés de conservación, varias de las calles, en una época empedradas y luego asfaltadas, muestran ahora un adoquín que evoca las épocas clásicas y las construcciones tradicionales exhiben pintorescos colores que crean el ambiente atractivo para los visitantes que van a mirar, a tomar alguna bebida o los turistas que se hospedan en una gran cantidad de hostales que reciben en especial a extranjeros que sucumben al encanto de la ciudad clásica.

Como otro de los atractivos están las iglesias de particulares estilos que a pocas cuadras causan admiración en los interesados, no solo en el turismo religioso sino en la arquitectura y en las obras de arte que albergan. Desde la Catedral Primada, el Palacio Arzobispal, la iglesia de San Ignacio, la del Carmen, Santa Bárbara y la misma Candelaria invitan a recorridos que pueden prolongarse a otros sectores del centro de Bogotá e inclusive a varios municipios de Cundinamarca relacionados con esta temática.

Pocos saben, por ejemplo, la relación de la Iglesia de La Candelaria con la de Bojacá, con la del Desierto de La Candelaria (en Ráquira, Boyacá) o con el Claustro del Cerro de La Popa, en Cartagena, marcada por la presencia de los mismos religiosos Agustinos en esos sitios y la similitud del arte barroco de los altares mayores de cada una de esas iglesias.

Pocos saben que el nombre completo de la capital antioqueña es la Villa de Nuestra Señora de La Candelaria de Medellín y pocos intuyen la trascendencia de la devoción de esta Virgen, representada en ocasiones con rostro moreno, pero que siempre ha connotado el efecto de la luz de las fogatas, las teas o las candelas, en al menos veinte países de las Américas.

Por eso, como si a propósito hubieran medido la trascendencia de la proyección del nombre, esta localidad está hecha para escribir historias en la vida de los bogotanos y de cada visitante que disfrutándola a plenitud llevará grandes recuerdos a sus sitios de origen.

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